This
is a professionally built, custom digital stereo camera rig. It is
super compact and designed to be ultra portable. It uses a pair of
quality used
Canon SD1100is 8Mp cameras, Z-bar and integrated switch. A pair of
Lithium Ion batteries, 2 2GB memory cards with SDM already installed,
a USB card reader, and two battery chargers are included with
the
purchase.
Stereo
base is adjustable on the fly from 67mm to 147mm. This
camera is the first ever to use the design feature that I
developed. A single wire with a grounded frame. This design feature
lets me tuck the power wire away so that it won't get caught on
everything. The coil lets the wire automatically retract
itself
so that you can put this camera in a pants pocket or a jacket breast
pocket. The
SDM shutter switch is firmly attached to the Right camera with an
ingenious screw that hooks onto the camera's wrist strap loop, and has
it's own wrist strap loop to replace the one being used. Each camera
rides on a "sled" that helps keep the cameras aligned when adjusting
the stereo base. It also leaves a place for the shutter wire to hide.
The switch is a proven choice with easy to replace button cells (3
cells, 4.5v).
You
will take this camera to places you
normally wouldn't dream of taking any other stereo camera.
Every
one of my cameras is a hand made jewel, designed and built for years of
service. I have learned with each new camera, and have learned from
other builders as well. I am confident that this is the most convenient
digital stereo camera twin rig, yet made.
Using Stereo Data Maker to take
stereo photographs
This
camera uses a single switch to fire both cameras. There are two ways to
operate it under the SDM program. The simplest way is to full press the
button, wait for the cameras to focus, charge flash, etc. until the
screens both go blank. The photo is taken on release of the switch. The
alternate way is to make a single quick press first, and the
cameras focus, etc.. Then, when you are ready to shoot, you
will
re-press the switch and wait for both screens to go blank, then release
to take the picture. The reason for the blank screen, is that the
program writer found the last step before the camera actually takes the
shot, and placed the pause there. That last step makes the screens go
blank. This removes as many possible places where the cameras could be
mis-synched. The result is, synchronization that is up to 1/16000 of a
second, with no drift.
Near
Perfect Synch
This
image will give you an idea of the
synchronization that is typical with this camera, and this
does
not drift with time and you do not have to check the synch each time
you turn on the cameras. The software loads on the cameras on start up,
they remember the setup you had the last time the cameras were on, and
you can shoot one pair after another, without any set up in between.
All you have to do is power up and shoot. Most shots with
this
camera will have
synchronization as good as or better than these. You will rarely if
ever find a
shot that is mis-synched in any visable way. Feel free to shoot
splashing water, flapping flags or birds in flight. They will all be in
synch.
In this image, the water is synched perfectly. It is
unlikely that you will need better synch than this.
Bright clear images
The shot below is a completelyuneditedshot,
demonstrating the bright, clear images created by the Canon
SD700IS cameras (the rig for sale is using the superior SD1100is
cameras). It also demonstrates the close to perfect alignment of
this rig. It was taken with the cameras set at 99mm spacing to enhance
the 3D effect. The images on this page
are Left Right left. The left pair are parallel view and the
right pair are cross view.
Below is a full resolution detail from the above
image. All other
images on this page are considerably lower than original resolution in
order to allow internet viewing.
Stereo movies
The
above movie above is in parallel but can be switched to many viewing options
from YouTube, by clicking the window. Stereo Data Maker does not
synchronize the starting of the cameras, but the shutter switch does
start both cameras at the same time. Since there is a high frame rate
to video, your synch is usually close enough that mis-synch won't be
noticed. combining the two movies into stereo is done with Stereo
Movie Maker software, which lets you align, crop and match
frames for best possible synch.
This is my Father in Law, who is the son of a baker, demonstrating the art of making a traditional Czech Christmas coffee cake.
Hyper Stereo
The shot below is from the Empire State Building, looking towards the
Chrysler building. Being able to view your shots before you take them
gives you a huge
advantage. For example you can create perfect hyper-stereo views with
this camera, without a tripod, long bar, or guessing at alignment. I
discovered that if you take the right hand image and then review the
shot in the right hand camera , you can then take a step or two to the
left and align your left hand image to the existing right hand image.
The stereo
base here is about 20 feet but I am not sure, since I just eyeballed it
in the camera.
Flash
With flash switched on for both cameras, the left camera's flash is
dimmed, but the
right camera flash fires full. With the close synchronization this
allows flash photography using the built in flash. The flash can be
turned on or off as needed (but not on auto).
The image below shows an operating fan. The combination of synch and
flash make this a remarkable demonstration of the capabilities of these
cameras. This image was taken with one of my 8MP cameras, by John
Elson.
I thank him for the image and apologise for not putting it up earlier.
You will need anaglyph glases to view top image, but the
synch is
obvious even without the glasses.
These cameras are built by me, Timo Puhakka, an avid stereo photography
hobbyist,
former
Toolmaker, and former Imax camera technician. It is a
complete turnkey, ultra compact, convertable, dual, 8 megapixel,
digital stereo camera. The battery and memory card doors are
fully accessable without disassembling the camera at all.
This camera
consists of
two Canon SD1100is digital cameras. It is extremely compact making it
very convenient
when traveling. The automatic exposure controls make this camera much
faster to set up for a shot than its’ Realist format
competition.
No need for light meters or manual settings, unless you want to play
around (which you still have the option to do).
The images must be manipulated in the computer to make a suitable
viewing pair (the Left image starts out upside down). You can find many
resources on the internet to learn how to properly align a stereo pair
for the best viewing. You can also use the free StereoPhoto
Maker
software which will allow you to automatically align your digital
stereo pairs, and output them in various stereo formats.
Viewing the
images on
the computer or on prints can be done in many ways, Freeviewing
(parallel), cross eyed, or with optical viewers (one is included
with your purchase).
You could also get photographic slides made by a
service company and mount them in cardboard mounts for viewing in a
Realist style stereo viewer, or using the 2 X 2 slides you get back, in
a viewer like the “Pinsharp”
available on the
internet. A couple of companies making these slides can be accessed
from the following links: Slides
from digital Gammatech Colour
Slide
If you get some sldes made, let me know how they turned out. I haven't
tried any of them yet. You can also create anaglyph prints (for viewing
with red / green glasses, or make
stereo cards and view them in a Holmes
style viewer.
The stereo card below was made using Photoshop and a modified mask from
Robert Thorpe's Standard.
If you take this file and have it printed at Walmart, or your favourite
photo printer, as a 5X7, you can cut the excess off the print and have
an instant stereo card that will fit in any Holmes type viewer.
Alignment on a Mac
There are several free or pay applications for aligning stereo
pairs on the PC, but being a Mac Head, I had to look for a Mac
solution I
discovered, to my amazement, that iPhoto "08 is very well
set up for adjusting, aligning, and cropping digital stereo slides,
straight out of the box. And it is free when you buy a Mac. The
procedure is to select your right and left hand images and open them
both by selecting "edit" from the menu (or just by double clicking one
while both are selected). The screen shot below shows how the screen
looks while you are cropping on both images at once. You can
adjust both images side by side, one at a time, while viewing. This
example is in cross view.
You can also adjust colours, contrast, sharpness etc. etc., do special
effects, all the settings of which you can copy and paste between
images. You can correct rotational errors, scale errors, fix red eye,
and crop to many standard proportions. You will still have to
go to another program to
mate your pairs for display or to do lenticular or anaglyph, but that's
a whole lot easier after all
the rest of this stuff is done. It is however, absolutley perfect for
preparing your images for getting slides made. You can crop for 5, 7,
or 8 perf slides, depending on how you want to view your
slides
when they are done.
UPDATE! A new version of StereoPhoto
Maker
is being worked on, which lets you run a special version of SPM on an
Intel Mac, using Darwine. I have tested it and, aside from a
bug
that causes it to pause a long time before opening the save window, it
works flawlessly. This has not been released yet, but I will keep you
posted.